Sri Lanka Travel Tips

(posted with permission from www.volunteersrilanka.org )

The following tips are from previous volunteers. If you are coming to Sri Lanka to volunteer, please take a few minutes and read these over - they were learned the hard way!

  Language/Communication

• Buy a copy of the Lonely Planet Sinhala Phrasebook, pick up a copy of Lonely Planet Sri Lanka as well. Although much of the information is out of date after the tsunami, it is still an invaluable resource for those unfamiliar with Sri Lanka.

• Always have written names of desired destinations available as pronunciation is difficult…most people can sound out words written in English.

• Whenever you can you should have a Sinhala speaker at your destination explain directions to that place to the person taking you there. Trust us on this one.

• Most Sri Lankans like practicing their English, and it is assumed that all foreigners speak it.

• All young Sri Lankans study English in school. If they do not speak/understand it well, they might be able to read written English well. 

Currency  

• Have exact change.

• The going exchange rate is around 100 Sri Lankan Rupees (Rs)/dollar. Check here for daily rates. Currency rates are controlled so there's no point in shopping around for better rates.

• Banks are closed at 4:30pm usually and are closed during weekends and public holidays. Sri Lanka has the most public holidays of any nation on the planet.

• Traveler's checks are a major hassle and will cost a premium to cash, and you can only change money at the banks, and that's only during certain hours of the day. Basically a big hassle, so use...

• ATM cash machines. There is really no need to carry any more than $100.00 at a time in cash. As long as your ATM card works on any of the major networks (Cirrus, Maestro, Visa, etc) you can get cash 7/24 at most any reasonably sized town.

• ATMs usually have daily limits around Rs 20,000 ($200).

• These machines usually dispense only Rs 1000 notes, which can be difficult to change into smaller bills unless you are making a large purchase.

• Before you head out to a rural area, try and get at least Rs. 2000 in small bills. The larger stores and hotels will usually be able to make change, look for a grocery store chain called Food City or John Keels, make a small purchase and get change that way.

Budget  

• Depending on how fancy you want to get, hotels will cost you between Rs 500 and Rs 3000 per night But you can generally get decent digs for around Rs 500-700 per night. See the section below on lodging.

• Food will run you approximately another Rs 1000/ day. So...

• Budget about 2000 per day ($20.00) and you can live very comfortably. 

• If you intend to stay longer than 1 month don't forget to budget budget $175.00 for your residence visa. See more info about visa requirements in the FAQ section.

• Clothes are very cheap in Sri Lanka, and high quality: shirts for about $2.50, pants around $4-6.00. If you can afford it, save yourself some baggage weight and costs, bring the minimum of clothes and just buy, or have made, what you need here. 

• You can get most drugs short of narcotics without prescription at pharmacies. We recommend you consult your doctor and get a list of medications from him or her before you depart for Sri Lanka, THEN buy them here for a fraction of what they would have cost at home.

    Bandaranaike International Airport  

• So, you made it all the way to Sri Lanka and think your journey is over, huh? Sorry, unless you crash at a hotel next to the airport, you've still got a bit of a journey ahead.

• The airport is located about 35 kilometers north of Colombo and in times of heavy traffic it can take up to two hours to get to Colombo. You can take a public bus for a about Rs 50, but after a long plane ride, that's only for the truly adventuresome or the truly poor.

• Best to hire a vehicle just outside the entrance hall that will take you to Colombo for about Rs 1200-1400 (with a/c). Expect to pay a premium after 10:00PM.

• There are places to change money in the the entrance hall as you come out of Customs, including cash machines, 24 hours a day, so no need to try and find Rupees overseas prior to arrival.

• Exchange rates are controlled so everyone has more or less the same rates. The departure lounge has slightly worse rates than the exit/entrance hall.

• When leaving the country you must have a Rs 1000 exit tax. Don't forget to save that amount in local currency or you will have to change money.

    Cell Phones  

• GSM cell phones are essential for communication

• If you bring a cell phone from overseas, check with your provider and make sure you are not network blocked. If it you are you won't be able to use your cell phone here unless you overwrite the software. Or buy a new one.

• If you need to buy a cell phone, a used one can be purchased at the M1 store in Liberty Plaza, Colombo; there are several stores there selling new cell phones as well. Depending on how fancy you want it they will go from US$50-$100. You can also get them at Majestic City and Unity Plaza on Galle Road in Colombo.

• The SIM card will get you a local dial-up number, then you buy prepaid phone cards in pharmacies or mobile phone stores all over the island. The cards can be purchased in Rs 400 or Rs 1000 increments. Dialog GSM has the widest coverage in Sri Lanka, so best to go with them.

• Text messaging is commonly used as it is much cheaper than calling (Rs 2 per message). If you've never sms'd before, you will now.

• Dialog mobile phone calls are priced as follows: During the day, Rs 13 Rs /minute for outgoing calls, Rs 7 /minute for incoming calls; at night (after 8pm),  Rs 9 outgoing, Rs 4 incoming).

• Mobile phones do not have area codes, but have three digit prefixes all starting with 077, 073, 071, etc. depending on the network provider. This number can be called from anywhere on the island and dialed as given (i.e. 0775551212). Land lines have area codes (Colombo 011, Matara District 041, Hambantota District , including Tangalla, Kirinda, Tissa Maharama, 047).

• The important thing is to count the number of digits in the phone number someone gives you. If if there aren't 7 plus + 3 digit area code or cell prefix, it's a wrong number.

    Internet

• In Colombo internet cafes charge about  Rs 60 Rs an hour.

• In other areas, internet access is few and far between.  Nicer hotels may have one computer that you can use. The cost is about Rs 7 a minute.

• Generally internet access is easier to find in places frequented by tourists. There are numerous Internet Cafes in Hikkaduwa, Galle, Unawatuna, Matara, and a couple in Tangalla.

• Some internet cafes block internet transactions and some internet providers. It is best to have a web-based account via Gmail, Yahoo or gmail email account.

• Bring a Flash or Thumb Drive with you!! 128 MB capacity should be fine. Very handy when in cyber cafes.

• Download a copy of Portable Firefox.This very cool little browser program parks on your flash drive and allows you to run the Mozilla Firefox browser from there, which means you can carry all your bookmarks with you AND, more importantly, save and protect your passwords! Be sure you get the latest version or at least version 1.0.3 as they fixed some security flaws in it.

    Transportation

• In Sri Lanka, the vehicles go on the left side of the road - NOT the right. This is the opposite of how vehicles go in continental Europe and the US. So make sure that you don't look in the wrong direction while crossing the road!

• In addition, Sri Lankan drivers are not noted for adhering to road rules including speed limits. So be very careful when crossing the road. Don't assume that drivers will stop when you're on a pedestrian crossing.

• Lane markers are merely a suggestion. Try not to become too alarmed at the sight of oncoming vehicles, there is every possibility you will arrive alive at your destination alive. 

Tuk-Tuks

• The ubiquitous trishaw or tuk-tuk (three-wheel motorcycle taxis) is the easiest way to get around and by far the most exciting. There's hardly ever a dull moment in the back of one of these, and they can zip in and out of places cars (and goats) couldn't possibly get through. Go for the pimped-out rides with the phat stereos, but expect to pay a little more for luxury.

• Always, always, always negotiate a price BEFORE you get in and make sure the driver understands where you want to go. 

• Short distances (2-3 KM) are about Rs 40. You can cross Colombo from north to south for less than Rs 300, so use that as a baseline. If somebody says Rs 800 to go ANYWHERE in Colombo he is charging you a hefty "foreigners" tax.

• Drivers may be willing to wait for you or come back for you at a pre-arranged time. Some also have cell phones.

• You can also hire tuk-tuks by the day. In Colombo the rate would run somewhere around Rs 1200. Outside of Colombo the price generally falls depending on how rural; and how many tourists are in the area.

• Trishaw drivers may not be able to make change from large bills, so ask before you leave if that's all you have. Be sure to hold onto small bills for tuk-tuk rides (see above re/ Currency).

Busses

• The bus is the cheapest method of travel, 6 km is 9 Rupees. There are bus stops, sometimes marked by white cement blocks on the side of the road. When in doubt, ask somebody. The bus may not stop if you are not at a stop, and you will need to flag it down. This generally works best if you are with a Sri Lankan.

• Buses are sometimes extremely crowded! Breath deeply (or, on second thought, maybe not) and remain calm. Repeat the Fear Mantra to yourself, and keep your wallet close. A guy will come round to ask you where you are going and collect your fare. 

• Women do not sit next to Buddhist priests.

• If traveling within Colombo and environs, keep Rs 20 bills handy. Past volunteers have spoken about the merits of getting lost a couple of  times so that they know where they are going better, the next time.

• The bus conductor will probably not alert you to your stop, especially if the bus is crowded. Everyone is generally very friendly so just ask someone to point out your stop for you. Get used to walking if you miss your stop.

• Note also that buses stop for only fractions of seconds, or in many cases merely  slow down a bit. So try to position yourself at the door well-ahead of your stop.

• Keep personal belongings close to you since it is better to be safer than sorry. Un-sling your backpack or knapsack and place it in front of you or in your lap. Keep an eye on your things at all times. With this word of caution please also note that past volunteers have had no problems traveling by bus.

• There are kilometer markers on the side of the main south coastal road ("Galle Road") which can be used as landmarks.

• The same buses on the Galle Road go to nearby cities, the destination is on the bus but is written in Sinhala. Check with the driver. There are different colored buses corresponding to different companies, but each company may service multiple destinations.

• The best way to travel long-distance by public-trans vehicle is an air-conditioned bus (about Rs 130 from Colombo to Galle) these are speedy and nice and cool (when the a/c is working, which is most of the time).

• Unless you like riding three hours with your knees around your ears AVOID the seats with the wheelwells. If you are the last person on the bus and you see some seats left, they are probably on top of wheel wells. Advice is unless it's the is the last bus of the day, just wait for the next one. It won't be long as there will be several people who also saw that seat and decided the same thing you did.

• Generally, vehicle hires go for about $30-40 per day. Two particularly good services who have in no way provided compensation this endorsement (something we are working on) are Rajagiri Tours (0112793510) and Abans. Hotels would also be able to arrange this service, but at a premium.

• Within Colombo there is this guy named Mohammed, no kidding, who has a taxi service. Seriously, his business has grown entirely by word of mouth because he is reliable, his drivers are good, and they generally show up when they say they will. His vehicles are all air-conditioned vans and his drivers know Colombo well. The price is metered and generally only about 10-15% higher than what you'd pay if you bargained hard with a tuk-tuk driver. Mr. Mohammad is a very nice man as well. The number is 0777311840.

• Trains are available along the coast from Colombo to the southern part of the island as far as Matara. 2nd Class fares can be had for about 200 Rs from Colombo to Galle, and these are marginally nicer than 3rd Class as it is possible to get a seat. 3rd class is standing room only. This is the best way to travel as you can get a view of the island that is not possible while fearing for your life traveling on the Galle Road.

    Security  

General

• Sri Lanka is generally very safe. Like many large cities there are parts of Colombo that are should remain out of bounds after dark, such as Fort and Petta.

• It is inadvisable for women to travel alone by tuk-tuk after 10:00 PM. Similarly, small towns are generally very safe, but single women should avoid walking alone after dark.

• Watch for pickpockets on busses.

• Shame is the best way to get someone to stop bugging you. If you feel they are being bothersome say loudly but firmly to stop bothering you and look about for support. They will usually back down quickly.

Touts

• As with most developing countries there are also many people trying to scam you. Touts, or scam artists, usually hang out in tourist areas or train and bus stations.
• One of the more common scams happens on Galle Face Green in Colombo, where a man will approach you and become your good friend and convince you that you must see this temple or that statue. He'll take you there, but also make you visit a gem store and then force you pay an enormous rate to the tuk-tuk driver, who is also in on the scam.
• Be polite but firm with these guys. If he says anything about gems, or offer to show you a local landmark that's usually the sign. Whatever you do, don't get in a vehicle with him. And it will always be a guy. We have never heard of women participating in these scams.
• Remember though there is always the chance that this person is just trying to be friendly. So try not to miss out on some natural Sri Lankan hospitality.

Beggars

• Beggars are heartbreaking, no question. What's more, begging for small change is is generally their only living. But you should be aware that he or she is probably working as part of a syndicate and most of their daily take goes to the person who lets them beg at that corner.

Lodging

• Most coastal towns have tourist hotels. Many towns have a government rest house which is usually nice and a good value. 

• Rs 3,000 is the average price for accommodation. But you can find much cheaper rest houses outside Colombo. Decent digs can be had for about Rs 500/night.

• Small guesthouses are also available and are usually cheaper. The price may or may not include breakfast - ask if price includes full (two meals) or half board (breakfast).

• Usually only the larger hotels or government rest houses will have A/C rooms available. With a fan in the room it is generally quite comfortable without A/C. The price for A/C rooms is generally about a third again higher than rooms without.

• Make sure to ask for a mosquito net so you can have the windows open at night.  In most places it is comfortable enough with out A/C if you have the fan on and the window open.

• If you plan on staying at a place a long time buy a mosquito net here. They are only Rs 300 and are nice and light so they breath well.

• If you are staying a longer than a week, you should be able to negotiate a better room price. As an example, the VSL house in Hikkaduwa cost $100/month for 6 months. The NGO you are working with can also intercede with a local rest house owners to get you local (not foreigner) rates.

• You should be able to leave your laundry with someone at the hotel to send out to a village woman for washing.  It may take a couple days for the clothes to dry, especially in the rainy season, so budget accordingly or pack wet clothes. You can also buy small packets of detergent from little kiosks selling misc. items and a plastic bucket for Rs 100.

• Most cheaper places do not have hot water, but unless you go to Nuwera Eliya in the high country cold water showers are no problem.

• Bring your own set of sheets and pillow cases. Some of the smaller places don't have washing machines so sheets must be hand-washed, and aren't always the cleanest. Plus, some of the places will have bed-bugs, even the nicer places.

• There is different toilet etiquette in Sri Lanka.  Most places have western style toilets. Sometimes there are hoses attached to the wall next to the toilet for hosing yourself off afterwards. The washing bit is always done with the left hand. If there is a waste bin, use it to dispose of toilet paper instead of flushing it down the toilet.

    Mosquitoes  

• Try to bring with you a permethrin-based mosquito repellant that can be sprayed on your mosquito net and on your clothes. This type of repellant will stay viable usually for about two or three weeks per application. Read the instructions of these sprays carefully since there are different methods of application.

• A more conventional deet-based cream or spray is best for your exposed body parts. Better yet, get some non-toxic citronella-based repellant in oil or stick form. Both types of repellents are available at camping/backpacking type stores (REI, Millets). After 10 years living in Malaria prone countries this stuff was recommended by one of our volunteers: "Completely non-toxic and keeps the mosquitoes off up to 6 hours."

• Mosquito coils are also used. Usually the hotel provides these, but you can buy a box of  12 for less than a dollar. They burn for about 10 hours, emitting a mildly poisonous fume that drives the mossies away.

• Electric ‘mats’ are also used for mosquito elimination. You plug in a small device and place a little mat on the heating surface. These can be bought at most of the supermarkets (like Food City, Keells etc).  The odor is more pleasant than the coil and not so poisonous.  Coils are far more common though.

• Malaria is not endemic in the south of the country, but is still common in the northeast. If you are living in the southwest third of the island there is generally no need for malaria-prophylaxis (Larium, Paludrine/Chloroquine, or doxycyclene). So don't put yourself through the torture.

• Dengue Fever, on the other hand, is endemic, especially in Colombo. However, there is nothing that can be done to prevent it other than avoid getting bitten by mosquitoes. If you come down with it count on at least a 3 week ride and other than IV drips for fluid replacement. It is rarely life-threatening though. If you are feeling rotten for more than three days, you should get tested for dengue.

• This isn't to scare you, but it does happen (though not very often), so read up on it and be aware. Dengue is said to have broken out if there are more than a couple hundred diagnosed cases in a city the size of Colombo, so your odds are pretty low. 

    Food  

• Food is safe in Sri Lanka. Of course there is always the danger you can get a bad batch - as can happen anywhere. But in general the restaurants and bakeries have cheap and delicious food. So be adventurous!

• Sometimes it is simplest to eat at your hotel/guesthouse. Price is commensurate with the quality of the hotel (Rs 125 to Rs 400).

• Rice and curry is usually the cheapest item, but you usually have to order it in advance because it takes a long time to prepare all the different curries that you will be served.  It is best to order lunch in the morning. They usually prepare one lunch batch and will not prepare another one special order. You usually have your choice of fish or chicken, or just vegetables.  All will come with rice and various potato or vegetable curries.

• There are lunch and dinner buffet places that can make for a quick and Cost is between Rs 100-200.

• Lunch packets are generally available at bakeries, wrapped in wax paper and very cheap (about Rs50). They are usually delicious and rarely the same thing twice.

• Street food is another option and is for those with nominally strong stomachs and constitutions. "Kottu Roti", with the clanging spatulas, available at street kiosks will provide a show at no extra charge. Egg hoppers and string hoppers are the most popular form of street food and are tasty, quick, cheap and ubiquitous. There are also "Roti" sort of an Sri Lankan spring roll with spicy curry in a breaded wrapping.

• Noodles and fried rice are other common dishes.

• If you want a large dinner the same lunch rules apply.

• Sri Lankan breakfast is spicy! But most places offer "continental" breakfasts with toast, fruit and/or eggs.

• Most Sri Lankans eat with their hands. You may not get silverware if you are at somebody’s house. Usually a bowl of water is provided to wash your hands.

• Ginger Beer is a common non-alcoholic soft drink with a strong ginger flavor.   

• Tea is usually served with milk and lots of sugar. Order is "black" if you want sugar." Or "plain tea" if you want it with no milk or sugar.

• The two local brews are Lion Lager and Carlsburg. Opinions differ, sometimes violently, among volunteers as to which is intrinsically better. Lion Lager is more popular, but Carlsburg tends to be colder because fewer people drink it.

• Don't miss the local distillate, arrack. Great for sipping over ice with a lime, stripping paint, or both!

  Water  

• Bottled water is available most everywhere.

• Be careful with ice (if there is any available). The large tourist hotels are usually safe.

• A tasty alternative to water is the juice of young coconut or king coconut. They just whack the top of the coconut with a cutlass, and you have a cool, refreshing 12 oz. beverage. They'll even give you a straw so you can complete the tourist image. It's like a natural Gatorade, delicious and about 12 Rupees. Be sure to get them to crack open the nut when you are done to scrape the young coconut off the inside. Look for them at roadside stands and make sure they pick one that's been in the shade.

Electricity  

• The electric current in Sri Lanka is 230 – 240V, 50Hz, and varies. If you bring sensitive electronic equipment to the country (e.g. a laptop) buy a voltage stabilizer when you get here.

• Bring a full array of adapters and a step-down (220v to 110v, or a a dual voltage transformer) if your travel appliances require one.

• There are not always 2-pin sockets available so you will have to get an adapter called a multiplug (about Rs 100), available at any hardware store and many small kiosks.

• Most electrical sockets in Sri Lanka are round. So be sure you buy the multiplug with the round prongs (as opposed to the rectangular ones.

• You can also purchase a "power block" (Rs 500-600) multiple plug extension cord. Again, be sure you get the round, 3-pin, or a multiplug adapter along with it.

• If you have a 2-pin plug that you need to put in a 3-pin socket, you can rig up the socket to accept the 2-pin plug. Most outlets have an on/off switch. Turn off the socket and place a key or other (preferably non-metallic) item in the top hole (the ground socket) to push the internal part in while inserting the plug.  No, we're not kidding. You are only touching the ground, so you are unlikely to electrocute yourself. I'd still make sure that switch was off though. Then plug in your two-pronged appliance.

    Dress  

• Women should wear pants or long skirts (at least knee length). Sleeveless shirts are not recommended outside of Colombo. 

• Cheap clothes can be found in Colombo at the following stores: Odel's, House of Fashion, Fashion Bug, and Beverly Street (all are located on Duplication Rd. also known as R.A. de Mel Mawatha in Colombo 3).

• Men can get away with wearing shorts, but they should be around knee length. Women can't. Not fair, but that's the way it is.

• During the day it is exceptionally hot in most camps (30-35 degrees C). Count on burning some calories and sweating buckets. Be sure and hydrate with plenty of water or risk heat prostration.

• All weather, waterproof sandals such as Tevas are recommended footwear. You should also have closed toe shoes and socks as well for inclement weather. Your feet will get dirty. No way to avoid it. You can get clean again when you arrive home.

    Dos and Don'ts  

Temple Etiquette

• When visiting a Buddhist temple you have to remove your shoes, hat, sunglasses, and, if carrying an umbrella, furl it.

• Your legs and shoulders should be covered, never enter a temple in beach wear.

• You should never take a photo of a monk without asking permission.

• In the more visited temples you will likely be pestered for donations. The traditional practice is that you make a donation only if you wish.

• If you would like to give something, never hand money directly to a monk, give it to a responsible layperson.

• In Hindu temples follow same rules as in Buddhist temples.

Right Hand Rule

• Always give, receive and eat with your right hand.

• Avoid also waving or gesturing with your left hand (see toilet etiquette).

Bathing

• Public nudity is absolutely not allowed anywhere. You will notice people bathing in streams and tanks all over the country. But you will also notice that they do so covered with thin cloths.

Plan on Bringing  

Our advice is that you pack like you are going camping for a month. Though you won't need tent, stove or cooking utensils. Below is a partial list of things you should have:

• Cell phone with coverage unblocked

• ATM Card on any of the major networks

• Lots of t-shirts (preferably cotton ones you don't care about)

• Bathing suit (especially for women - it may be difficult to find your size here!)

• Sun block and after sun cream

• Leather work gloves - if you plan on doing any manual labor at all.

• Sunglasses

• Tevas or some other all-weather sandal

• Hat

• Rechargeable AA batteries and charger that runs on 220v

• Digital Camera that runs on AAs

• Flash drive (min 128 MB)

• Mosquito repellant

• Bed Sheets and pillow cases

• Towel (though you can buy one here)

• Insurance for the whole stay (medical and travel), vaccination against hepatitis.

• Blue sport coat for the freshman mixer (we're kidding)

• Coffee for the VSL house (not kidding)

    Tipping  

Tipping is optional. If you tip, about ten percent of the bill is usually fair.